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Trend Report: Fall/Winter 2023

From New York to Paris, revisiting the most directional motifs of the men’s and women’s shows.


Come rain, snow or economic uncertainty, the style circus continues apace. This season, much of the big news took place before any models descended the runway, from Ib Kamara’s debut collection for Off-White to Balenciaga’s anticipated return to the fashion calendar and the first Vivienne Westwood show since the British icon’s passing. Still, on the runways designers offered some elemental truth about where our collective heads are at.

With the globe in a state of flux and disaster lurking in every corner, it appears that designers are retreating back into safety. Which doesn’t mean that things were boring; just that collections were aimed toward the more buttoned-up and classic. Nonetheless, a few directional trends coalesced as reminders that fashion always has the ability to provoke and, perhaps more importantly, invoke desire.

Below, an overview of the motifs that defined this season’s men’s and women’s shows.

Valentino; Gucci; Prada; Gucci   
Givenchy; Dries Van Noten; Loewe; Balenciaga   
Etro; Givenchy; Fendi; Emporio Armani   
Givenchy; Dsquared2; Etro; Dsquared2   
Vivienne Westwood; Saint Laurent; Christian Dior; Etro   
Miu Miu; Dolce & Gabbana; Dries Van Noten; Ferragamo